L’As du Falafel: Trans-cultural takeout in the Marais.

In the Marais lie countless typical French bistros, Alsatian brasseries and Parisian sidewalk cafés.  While those are good places to take out-of-town guests, whenever I’m out walking around Paris by myself, I try to get to that narrow, crooked street that l’As du Falafel calls home.   

One can debate which culture should claim falafel as its own, even outside of the Middle East.  In Amsterdam you find one falafel restaurant proclaiming it to be an Arab dish beside another proclaiming it to be Jewish; it is, in fact, a historically Arab food that has bridged the Arab-Israeli gap so deeply that it’s now even referred to as the “national dish of Israel.”  Either way, I’ll settle the debate right here: it’s Maraisian.  No doubt there are places in Jerusalem and Damascus where you can find mouthwatering falafel, but I can’t imagine that it’s better than the stuff at l’As du Falafel (which is Jewish and closes for Shabbat). 

On the rue de Rosiers, you will find several falafel places.  It’s like non-Berthillon ice cream on Ile St. Louis; they’re all trying to get in on the action.  But it’s hard to miss the original—there will be two enormous lines out front—one line to the left (mostly French) in front of the takeout window and one line to the right (mostly tourists) for getting a table to eat inside. 

The street out front is hectic and crowded, even on a weekday.  The lines will be long, but fast moving.  Many people eat out front, standing around or leaning against competitors’ storefronts.  Occasionally cars drive by, trying not to run people down.  Tourists try to figure out which line to stand in.  It’s hectic and fun, feeling a bit New Yorky, only with healthier food than a Gray’s Papaya hot dog or a slice of Ray’s Pizza. 

Now, I haven’t tried all the competitors, but I have tried Chez Miriam (l’As was closed for the first half of last month for travaux and I had to have falafel!).  I don’t recommend it.  The falafel I had that day was dry and tasted like it was mass-produced the day before. 

If you opt for takeout, you can quickly duck around the corner and eat it in the Square Charles V. Langlois, which has a few green benches.  If you have room for dessert, there are several nearby boutiques dedicated to . . . chocolate. 

L’As du Falafel is at 34 rue des Rosiers in the 4^th arrondissement.  It’s open Sunday through Friday.