The Grub Hub
By Mollie Coyne
Peruvian Pick: El Picaflor
To go along with this week's French
Tease and Outbound Train, I just had to seek out a Peruvian restaurant in
Paris, which was not difficult to do.
On the left bank, near the Jardin des Plantes, lies El Picaflor.
El Picaflor (Spanish for "the
hummingbird") is a small, cozy restaurant with warm, natural lighting. Its off-white wood-paneled and exposed stone
walls are currently covered in local Parisian artwork, as well as various other
more specifically Peruvian items, including a retablo - a traditional religious wood carving. It's a nice blend of upscale left bank
boutique eating and a homey, comfortable setting.
Ordering à la carte might set you back
a bit, but the lunch menu, which is a starter and a main course, is very
reasonable at 9 euros. They also have a
similar kid's menu for 8 euros. There
are more expensive menus, as well, ranging from 19 to 39 euros, and of course
they serve Peru's national dish, ceviche.
For lunch, I opted for a Peruvian
tamal. I normally think of tamales as
being uniquely Mexican and Guatemalan, but I now know that Peru has them as
well. In Guatemala, tamales are made by
wrapping the ground corn hominy and meal with chicken or pork in a corn
husk. In Lima, Peru's capital city,
tamales are much larger, spicier and wrapped in banana leaves instead of corn
husks. Also, the chicken inside the
yellow corn hominy was accompanied with a hard-boiled egg, chili and black
olives. Truly a complete meal. The tamales at El Picaflor are quite
faithful to the tamales unique to Lima.
You can also treat
yourself to a pitcher of chicha, a special Peruvian drink historically made
with corn and, believe it or not, the saliva of the women who prepared it. This homemade drink was first made by Incan
women who would chew a certain type of corn in their mouths and then spit it
out. Their saliva would mix with the
corn, thereby fermenting into an alcoholic drink. El Picaflor serves
chicha morada, the non-alcoholic version that includes pineapple, cinnamon,
cloves and sugar-and quite possibly includes no spit whatsoever.
In modern Peru,
corn is boiled in water for several hours to make the chicha; saliva is
apparently no longer used. If you ever
visit Peru, then on your way to Machu Picchu, look out for houses flying a red
flag out in front, which means they make and sell their own chicha.
At El Picaflor, add to your Peruvian
tamal an authentic and uniquely Peruvian chicha morada and you've got yourself
a nice little Peruvian experience here in
Paris.
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