Dawning of the Age of Aquarius.

Last week I had the pleasure of dining at l'Aquarius, which can be found on a narrow side street in the 14^th. This mom and pop place (mom appears to hail from Spain) is funky and charming from its name to its light yellow façade to its food.

The cuisine is organic vegetarian. (Language lesson: It took me a while to remember the term "organic" since here in France the term for organic is biologique or, more commonly, bio.) The food is very, very fresh, totally natural, and healthy. In the kitchen are three cooks-an Englishman, a Peruvian and a Frenchman. Sounds like the beginning of a joke. But they work harmoniously side-by-side creating "international" dishes such as gazpacho, vegetarian couscous royale, and gâteau de chocolat.

The décor matches the cuisine nicely-sunny, fresh, original. Described by some as kitschy, l'Aquarius' many small and cozy dining rooms have wind chimes, fountains and original art gracing the ceilings and walls.

The owners are friendly and attentive. The crowd is all French with several regulars. One elderly man told me he eats there practically everyday and quizzed me as to where I heard about his stomping ground. I told him the Internet and I'm not sure he knew what I was talking about. Funny that an organic vegetarian restaurant could become a neighborhood favorite in Paris, but that just proves how good the food is and how friendly the owners are.

Now, about the food. Everything was so good that we couldn't eat enough. From the whole-wheat baguette bread that comes before your appetizer (which is very tasty and has a good texture) to the dessert, everything was great. For starters, we had gazpacho and a raw salad (simply called crudités). It was some of the best gazpacho I've had outside of Southern Spain. A good consistency with just the right bit of spice.

I ordered the panaché de céréales with side vegetables. The quinoa came with roasted mushrooms and the sides were ratatouille, mashed butternut squash and lentils. A meatless meal, but a hearty one. Everything was good, but the mashed butternut squash stood out for taste and originality. I was tempted to ask for the recipe.

My lunch companion ordered the cereal sausage and was kind enough to let me steal some of it. It was fantastic. It was not one of those meatless creations made to imitate the taste of meat. Not at all. It was cereals and spices cooked together and the flavor was quite unique. Words can't describe it, but I know next time I go, this is what I will be ordering. One of the regulars nearby ordered the boulettes de riz and that looked very good, too.

For dessert I wanted the raspberry cake, but they ran out before I could order. The raspberry cake, looking around our dining room, is very popular. However, we tried the chocolate cake and the semoule cake and were not disappointed in the least.

You don't need a reservation for lunch, but it does fill up so you might want to go before 12:30. Reservations are probably a must for dinner. With its fresh food and atmosphere, l'Aquarius is a perfect place for a group of girlfriends to lunch while on a day walking or shopping around the city.

For a taste of something different and fresh and to give your body a break from all that heavy foie gras and cassoulet you've been eating here, I highly recommend taking the Metro to l'Aquarius. The complete lunch menu was only 12 euros.