Les Santons d’Aix-en-Provence

To state the obvious, Aix-en-Provence, that small and peaceful, yet energetic, village near the Mediterranean Sea in Bouches-du-Rhône department, is a very popular summer tourist destination. The sun saturates the sky and brings to life centuries-old buildings, the smell of garlic, olive oil and lavender penetrate the air, and the local Syrah washes down a summer ratatouille on the Cours Mirabeau. Filled with students (many of them expats), fountains and art treasures, Aix is at its height in the summer.

But what about in winter when the tourists are gone? While winter may be cooler or even chilly, I love visiting popular summer tourist destinations during the off-months. You get a real taste for the place, see it as the locals do. And during December, Aix is not asleep.

December is especially important to Aix because of a little something called the santon. The santon is a hand-carved figurine that is made only in Aix and its surroundings. Made by local artisans, this is a religious tradition that mostly stays in the family.

The last Sunday of November, the Eglise Saint Jean du Faubourg holds a special mass for these santoniers, those few people in the region who still make the santons. This kicks off the Foire aux Santons in Aix en Provence. This month-long fair (this year from November 24 until December 31 at the Place de la Rotonde) is dedicated to selling the little santons.

What is a Santon?

A santon (little saint) is a nativity figure. Hand carved. Hand painted. Even hand dressed. You have the normal characters that would be present in a nativity scene—baby Jesus, Mary, and Joseph, along with typical Biblical visitors such as the Three Wise Men and various anonymous shepherds. The tradition of the santons in Aix has evolved to add local elements, such as the woman bringing Jesus locally-made soap and the woman bringing Jesus escargots.

In addition to the normal characters, you will also find provençal visitors to the manger. These include the Ravi (the delighted one), the blind man and his son, the peasant bearing red fruits, the ribbon merchant and the gypsy with her guitar.

The first nativity scene has been credited to Saint Francis of Assisi, who, in 1223, built a nativity scene in Italy. However, his mother was from Provence and it is believed that she brought santons with her to Italy and passed this tradition down to her son.

Santoniers have been making santons since before that time, but they became particularly important during the French Revolution towards the end of the 18^th century when religious worship was banned. Thus there were no nativity scenes in public, but they were still able to make them at home.

What else is there to do at Christmastime in Aix?

Aix gets completely decked out for Christmas and even has live nativity scenes. Other things to do in Aix during December include the Bravade Calendale Christmas town party on December 16 and the market of the 13 desserts (marché aux treize desserts) from December 17 to 24 at the Place Jeanne d’Arc.

You definitely don’t want to miss the biggest Christmas event of them all, the Gros Souper, on December 22. The Gros Souper (Big Supper) costs 70 euros a person, is held at the Pasino and includes all 13 desserts (along with a lot of other food and even more tradition). You can register for the dinner by clicking here.