Caen

Caen, the capital of lower Normandy, is a medium-sized town a few miles inland from the English Channel. Because of its size and proximity to the D-Day landing beaches, it has become a bit of a base for people going to Normandy to experience World War II history. Hotels, such as the Novotel and Ibis, are plentiful, air-conditioned, and come with parking and a continental breakfast. The American cemetery and towns such as Arromanches-les-Bains are a stone’s throw away.

But while many rightfully use Caen as a central point for such visits, you should also schedule a day or two for Caen itself. It’s a pleasant port town and although its port is not as picturesque as that of Honfleur, the town still has much to offer.

For starters, it feels like there’s an Irish pub on every corner. So right there you’ve got something to do—take a break from French food and grab some stew or a burger with a pint.

The Château

Le Château Ducal is the centerpiece of Caen and rightly so. Home to William the Conqueror, the construction of the château began just before he invaded England and became its king in the mid-11^th century. William used this castle as his base while ruling England and invading neighboring French regions. Much of its ramparts and towers have been renovated several times and descendants have added to the castle. What remains is an imposing castle that has seen its fair share of years of warfare (several during the Hundred Years’ War, the French Revolution and World War II as barracks).

One of William’s sons, Henry I, added one of the largest palatial banquet halls. This “hall of the exchequer” once hosted Richard the Lionheart along with over 1,000 knights for a Christmas celebration before they fought in one of the Crusades.

Today, the castle houses two art museums and a sculpture garden, which is sometimes open in the evening for lighted tours. The château is currently undergoing another major renovation of its ramparts. During the works project, the museums remain open and entry is free. I should also mention that at the same time that the Duke of Normandy was building his château, he also constructed two abbeys—one for men and one for women. Even though roughly 80% of Caen was destroyed in World War II, the château and these two churches still stand. In fact, William the Conqueror was buried in the Abbaye-aux-Hommes and while his tomb has been raided a few times, there’s still a bone or two left. Both of these churches are also open daily to visitors.

The Peace Memorial

In the late 1980s, Mitterand commissioned the construction of a peace memorial. It’s unfortunate, really, that he is remembered more for his opera-for-the-common-man behemoth than for this, because it is design to force its visitor to really contemplate war. Starting with the end of World War I, the museum concentrates mostly on World War II, including an exhibit on les années noires, Occupied France.

Most interesting, perhaps, is the map detailing the Nazi concentration camp system, showing that it was in fact an enormous network of camps with differing purposes. Black and white photographs and articles such as uniforms, model ships and tanks are starkly set against the modern design of the museum. From WWII, the memorial walks you through the Cold War and then finally into a peace room, which is very bright and white, almost angelic.

Sunday Market

Caen’s Saint-Pierre market is one of the best French markets I’ve ever had the pleasure of going to. Very early every Sunday, over 400 stall-owners start setting up their crafts and fresh produce around the Port de Plaisance. Block off your Sunday morning and take your basket to the port to buy strawberries, sunflowers, herbs and even roasted chicken.

Football

Football is big in Caen. The local team, SM Caen in France Ligue 1, plays at the Stade Michel d’Ornano. Their next home game is on March 8 against FC Lorient.

How to Get There

Caen is about a two-and-a-half-hour train ride from Paris’ Gare St. Lazare. However, the best way to get there is by car. Follow William the Conqueror’s lead and use Caen as a base town; spend some of your time in Caen and the rest driving up and down the coast visiting D-Day landing beaches, the American Cemetery, British cemeteries, German cemeteries, etc. You can reach Caen via the A13 in about two hours, depending on traffic and whether or not you stop in Rouen to see the cathedral.