Aranjuez.

This week’s Outbound Train leaves the freezing cold temperatures of France and heads south for the town of Aranjuez in sunny Spain. Aranjuez, a Spanish royal family retreat roughly 50 kilometers from Madrid, is a perfect place to eat paella on a lazy Sunday afternoon. The town itself is a UNESCO World Heritage site because of the landscape design. Two rivers, the Tajo and the Jarama, come together in town and so the town’s landscaping bows to this geographical feature, blending nature and urban needs.

Architecture, gardens and farmland are brought together to make a truly beautiful little town. Even though it’s not located in the south of Spain, it certainly feels like you’re a long way from the capital. Just outside of Madrid’s fast-paced life, you can relax in the sun. The town is famous for its palace, its many carefully landscape gardens and its strawberries. I’d like to add a fourth item to that list—paella.

Palacio Real de Aranjuez

In the center of town is the magnificent 14^th-century Palacio Real de Aranjuez. It is still one of the royal family’s residences, but you can tour it for 5 euros Tuesday through Sunday. Designed by the same architect who designed El Escorial, the interior contains not only rich, beautiful furnishings, but also a large collection of museum pieces depicting “everyday” royal life.

Gardens

There are four main gardens in Aranjuez—Jardín de Principe, Jardín de le Isla, Jardín del Parterre y del Rey, and the Jardín de Isabel II. These are, by themselves, a reason to visit the city. You can spend an entire weekend devoted to visiting the gardens. The Jardín de la Isla was designed in the 16^th century by a Frenchman at the confluence of the rivers Tajo and Jarama. Built on an island, it is dotted with beautiful statues and fountains of Roman Gods. It’s beautiful in the summer, but also in autumn when the leaves change color.

The Jardín del Parterre y del Rey and the Jardín de Isabel II are near the palace and are very similar to those found at Versailles, with large basin fountains, statues and carefully cut hedgerows. The Jardín de Isabel II is a small, sunny square. The smallest and least magnificent of all of the gardens, if you’re short on time you can overlook this one without feeling guilty.

The largest and most impressive garden is the Jardín de Principe. Located a bit outside of the city center, it takes up a large swath of land on the banks of the Tajo. It was built in the 18^th century; however, it became a sort of botanical melting pot in that over the centuries, when Spaniards would travel abroad, they would bring back seeds from foreign lands and plat them here. Many people bike around the gardens and a little tourist train gives a rather long and detailed tour of the royal gardens, rivers and the town.

Strawberries

The town is also known for its strawberries. Every spring and summer, there’s an antique steam engine train dating to the 1920s that travels from Madrid’s Atocha train station to Aranjuez in celebration of the strawberry season. Known as the “strawberry train”, you can find out how to book your ride by clicking here.

Paella

But let’s talk paella. Across from the Jardín de Principe is a restaurant called Venta San Isidro that specializes in paella. The best time of year to go is during summer when the terrace, which overlooks farmland, is open. This restaurant is a favorite destination for large Madrileño families for Sunday dinner.

The staff will happily accommodate large groups of people. Fresh paella is served in enormous paelleras. Sangría flows easily. Side dishes include such imaginative gourmet items as croquetas de calabaza (pumpkin croquettes) and rabbit liver. The food is excellent, the setting peaceful and relaxing. Children are welcome and it’s common to see entire families of three generations dining together.

How to get there

How do you get to Aranjuez? Ryanair, the official Hobo airline, now flies directly into Barajas, Madrid’s main airport. From Madrid, Aranjuez is an easy drive on the A-IV. You can also take a C-3 cercanía train (similar to the RER or TER trains here in Paris) from the Atocha train station.

Where to stay

There’s a modern, affordable hotel beside the palace. Built in the 18^th century, it was the home to Manuel Godoy, the prime minister of Spain who was also known as the Prince of Peace. The building has been refurbished, has bright, modern furniture and even WiFi. The hotel NH Principe de la Paz is located at San Antonio 22 and you can make reservations online here. Prices start at only 77 euros a night.

For more information, visit the town’s website.