Outbound Train
By Mollie Coyne.
The
American Cemetery at Colleville-sur-Mer.
This
week's Outbound Train is to the American Cemetery and Memorial in
Colleville-sur-Mer, a pilgrimage site for many Americans. Perhaps you've seen it on Saving Private
Ryan. The cemetery served as the
filming location for both the opening and closing scenes.
While
the movie shows much of the cemetery, it hardly does justice to its vast size
and somber air. The numbers are
staggering. 9,387 Americans are buried
here. And even though there are other
American cemeteries in France, this is the most visited. If you've never been, then you should rent a
car and drive up some weekend. You owe
it to those who fought, to those who lost their lives and to the next
generation.
Finding
the cemetery is easy. For once in
France, the signage is good. Since the
cemetery is technically on American soil, it is open on French holidays and
Sundays.
Virtually
every grave marker has the fallen soldier's name, rank, home state, unit, and
date of death. You would think that
having to bury so many people in one place at one time, they would simplify
their enormous task by marking each grave with an identical marker. Time and care were obviously taken with each
soldier, exemplified by the use of a Star of David instead of a cross for
Jewish soldiers.
At
one end of the memorial is the very tall "Spirit of American Youth"
statue. Surrounding him are maps of
Europe depicting troop movements. After
showing the kids these maps and attempting to explain history, we set out for a
walk through the cemetery. The air was
heavy. There are white marble markers
everywhere you look. The lawn is
immaculate and well taken care of.
There's
a white, circular chapel ahead of you.
You may think that it's at the end of the cemetery only to find, once
you reach it, that it's in the middle and there are several more thousand white
crosses on the other side of it.
Flowers
and small American flags occasionally break up the white rows. Even with all of the visitors, most people
walk in silence. After we walked around
the cemetery, trying to take it all in and reading as many names as we could,
we walked over to the cliff's edge, where the cemetery overlooks Omaha Beach,
one of the D-Day landing beaches. While
I've read that this beach can fill up with sunbathers in the summertime, when
we were there, it was completely empty.
It was a very windy day with gray clouds covering the English Channel
and waves indicating an impending storm.
The water looked treacherous.
This is where many of those buried died.
Back
to Saving Private Ryan for a moment.
As I assume most of you know, this movie was a work of fiction but was
based in reality. It was partly based
on the story of the Niland brothers.
Robert and Preston died during the D-Day invasion. That same week, a third brother went missing
and was thought to have been killed in Asia.
(It was later learned that he was captured). The fourth and final brother, Fritz, who was also taking part in
the D-Day invasion, was sent home via a plane from Utah Beach. Their mother received all three death
notices on the same day. The two Niland
brothers who died in France are buried side-by-side at the Normandy American
Cemetery. If you want to find their
markers, just ask one of the employees at the visitor center for help.

The
American Cemetery is only closed on Christmas Day and New Year's Day.
How
to get there: The Normandy American
Cemetery sits on a cliff overlooking Omaha Beach and the English Channel, in
Colleville-sur-Mer, 170 miles west of Paris. The cemetery may be reached by car
via highway A-13 to Caen, then N-13 to Bayeux and Formigny, continuing on D-517
towards St. Laurent-sur-Mer and D-514 to Colleville-sur-Mer, where signs mark
the entrance to the cemetery.
Other American
Cemeteries in France
Roughly
40% of the American soldiers who died in WWII are buried overseas in special
American cemeteries that fly the American flag. Several of these are in France.
France also has WWI cemeteries.
In fact, the largest overseas American cemetery is in Meuse-Argonne and
covers a staggering 130 acres and serves as the resting place to 14,246 fallen
soldiers. There are over a dozen American
cemeteries in France, Belgium and Luxembourg. The one in the Philippines is even larger, with over 17,000 servicemen.
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