The First American Hobo in Paris

In the garden in front of the American embassy sits a statue to the first American hobo in Paris—Benjamin Franklin.

By the time of the American Revolution, Franklin was seventy years old, but still had the same wandering spirit he had always been known for. From science to philosophy to politics, he dabbled in whatever interested him. And eventually or inevitably, what interested him was Paris.

As countless thousands of other Americans have attempted to do since, Franklin came to Paris under the guise of doing something useful. He played and partied and was loved by both the French court and the people. In so doing, whether through artifice or genius, he may have been the linchpin that secured America’s victory against the British crown.

It is said that Benjamin Franklin is the first American. After he signed the Declaration of Independence, he and his coonskin cap moved to Paris to shore up French support for the American Revolutionary War. Incidentally, he brought with him two young grandsons because he felt that moving abroad would provide a good education for the boys.

Being the first American, he was also the first American expat, as he lived in Paris in the Hotel Valentinois, in what is now the 16^th arrondissement, for over seven years.

Franklin loved Paris and Paris loved Franklin. French high society thought him to be cute in a quaint, country sort of way. They loved that he dressed like a simple farmer, yet was an enlightened intellectual. They loved his coonskin cap. He was constantly being invited to the salons and parties. Medals with his image hung in living rooms across not only the city, but the rest of the country as well. He even gave them out himself.

Franklin became so involved in French society that he eventually became the head of the freemason organization, Les Neuf Sœurs. He also continued his hobby of inventing musical instruments. He built a printing press in Passy and used it to hand out invitations to his own social gatherings, as well as pamphlets espousing his ideas.

In celebrating Franklin’s 300^th birthday, an organization known as the Benjamin Franklin Tercentenary has created a traveling exhibit that teaches about his life. This exhibit, begun in 2006, has traveled to a handful of cities around the U.S. and now wraps up here in Paris. The exhibit in Paris has actually been split into two—the main one is at the Musée des Arts et Métiers and displays and explains many of his inventions. The other part of the exhibit is at the nearby Musée Carnavalet (the Paris History Museum) and explains Franklin’s connection with Paris and France. It is aptly entitled Un Américain à Paris. It runs until March 9.

Entrance to the Musée Carnavalet is free, but be sure to bring 7 euros (cash) to get into the Franklin exhibit, which is located directly to the left of the caisse, at the end of the wide hallway.

The exhibit starts out with an explanation of France’s involvement in the American Revolutionary War. Many of you are probably familiar with General LaFayette and his contribution to the colonists’ victory over the British Crown. The exhibit opens with an explanation of why the French became involved in the War, who the main figures were and what they did to assist us.

In 1763, the French lost a lot of New World territory to the British in the Treaty of Paris. And we all know that the French don’t forget history, especially when it comes to England and wars or, rather, wars with England. So when the British colonies in the New World wanted to tell the British where they could get off, France saw an opportunity to defeat the British and get revenge for the 1763 Treaty. The ultimate goal was to make this new country that would be created the main economic trading partner of France. They, along with several of the American founding fathers, anticipated that economic influences would dominate the new world political order and the English navy would no longer be the deciding factor in the European balance of power. Wars were on their way out in the days of Enlightenment and economics would soon prevail. Intellectually, the Americans and the French were a good fit. Bringing these ideals together was Benjamin Franklin. The ironic part here was that France was still under its own monarchy and notions of freedom and liberty were being perpetuated under Louis XVI’s rule and Franklin and the other Enlightenment thinkers had ties with the royal court.

As you view the first few items in the exhibit that are dedicated to the War, you will see a lot of oil paintings depicting certain battles. Notice that the flags on the French ships are all white. They’re not surrendering. This was the French flag before Napoleon—solid white represented purity and the authority of the house of Bourbon.

The remainder of the rooms concentrate on Franklin’s life here in Paris.

In the center of one of the exhibit rooms is a glass case containing personal items that Franklin had during his time in Paris. There is a teapot and a set of beautiful crystal shoe buckles that he bought here, a set of cards and a chess board that he brought over with him. There is also a pair of bifocals (not his) and a glass armonica (a musical instrument that he invented) that he built while here.

There is a small glass case containing some of the writings that Franklin printed out on his printer. This includes an invitation to a dinner party that he held and also a very interesting pamphlet entitled Information to those who Would Remove to America. Franklin was so loved by the French that they wanted to move to America, thinking it was full of people just like him. In an effort to dissuade the French from moving to the U.S., he published this short pamphlet describing what they would encounter there.

It is an incredibly interesting read. For example, he wrote: “Much less is it adviseable for a Person to go thither, who has no other Quality to recommend him but his Birth. In Europe it has indeed its Value; but it is a Commodity that cannot be carried to a worse Market than that of America, where people do not inquire concerning a Stranger, What is he? but, What can he do?” Translation: descendants of European nobility will find their titles—their very birthright—meaningless in America. As President Sarkozy told a joint session of the U.S. Congress less than two months ago, America’s message to those wishing to come to the United States has always been simple: there will be no limit to what you can accomplish other than those of your own courage and talent. These were revolutionary ideas for which European nobility was unprepared.

Another section of the exhibit explains that Franklin was a member of Les Neuf Sœurs, a French secret society that basically ran the country back then. This masonic lodge was even under the direction of Franklin for a time and he proved to be adept at recruiting new members. Les Neuf Sœurs were fascinated with air travel and in November of 1783, the group successfully staged the first human flight of a hot air balloon. Franklin was there to witness the flight, which originated from the grounds of the Château de la Muette.

The exhibit runs until March 9, 2008. You can find information about the exhibit at the Musée Carnavalet here. Click here to read about the sister exhibit at the Musée des Arts et Métiers.