You don’t have to be a post-Enry Iggins Eliza Doolittle to enjoy the Sunday races at Longchamp. Even a Prix du Moulin, where no mudblood horses are allowed, is no Ascot opening day. So leave your hat, billowy gown, and gloves at home and head to the Bois de Boulogne for a fun weekend day betting on horses.
The hippodrome at Longchamp, with its pristine green grass track and rows of bright red flowers has something to offer everyone. The crowd is an ironic mixture of well-dressed horse owners and their entourages, hard-working horse trainers and jockeys, and hard-gambling old Frenchmen (who often bring their families along for the ride on the weekends). The crowd definitely has a “regular” feel to it: I have the impression that a lot of these guys come here often. They come equipped with the horse racing section of the newspaper folded and placed under their left arms, a pen in their right hands, and binoculars around their necks. When you see scores of these odd birds flock into the stadium, follow them because a race is just about to start. The grounds of Longchamp, which run along behind the stadium seating area, have many different types of restaurants, bars, nooks, and crannies to suit everyone. There are even bonbons stands and a playground for the kids. 
A typical Sunday race day (a dimanche au galop) consists of several afternoon races, each lasting a whopping 2 minutes or less. The races are spaced about 30 minutes apart. In between the races, you can go place a bet at the line of guichets behind the stadium or grab a beer in one of the many bars—the outdoor bar between the stadium and the betting guichets is the most atmospheric place to grab a drink. On Sundays, free pony rides are offered to kids and sometimes the stables are open to the public, as well. 
The cheapest way to watch the races is from the center grass field, which you can enter via the underground car park tunnel. This field offers decent views and picnic tables, but not much shade, which is why it’s free. Most races require a minimum bet and it’s best to rent a seat up in the stadium instead of watching the race from track level—up in a seat you’ll be able to see most of the race from a good angle. Throughout the year, Longchamp puts on special racing events that are generally free to the public, which means that there is no minimum bet and you don’t have to pay for one of the reserved seats upstairs. This summer, for example, Longchamp had a special race day for Bastille Day, complete with barbecue and fireworks in the evening. This past weekend, Longchamp teamed up with the Qatar Racing and Equestrian Club for a three-day Festival du Qatar et du Cheval Arabe. Dozens of Qataris and Qatari horses were flown in for the festival, which included displays of Qatari music, dance, clothing and cuisine. All of the senses of this horse-racing country were captured—men covered in all white made music, jewelry, and fishing nets. Women covered in all black made traditional breads and sweets, rugs, and perfumes. My favorite was the young lady who gave what probably ended up being hundreds of Parisian women henna tattoos on their hands and feet. 
The next big event at Longchamp is the 86th Prix de l’Arc de Triomphe Lucien Barriere on Sunday, October 7. Tickets cost 4 euros a person and a crowd of almost 56,000 is expected. If you don’t have a car, getting to Lonchamps can be a pain in the horse’s arse. Take RER line C or Metro line 1 to Porte Maillot, then hop on the bus 244 and get off at the Carrefour du Longchamp stop, after which you’ll still have to walk halfway around the track itself (which is across the street and down the hill from the bus stop). There is also the option of a shuttle bus that runs every 10 minutes from Porte Maillot to the racetrack itself. The racetrack is also a great place to cycle in Paris—a cycling path encircles the entire track. For more information, go to www3.france-galop.com. To watch a short video on Longchamp, click on the image below:
Sunday at Longchamp
| 
