Irish Paris.

The old proverb that the enemy of my enemy is my friend can be used to describe the relationship that France has with Ireland. You know what that intermediate country is, right? Britain, of course—quite possibly the only country to get more of a rise out of the French than the United States does.

British rule over Ireland came with what was called Protestant Ascendancy, which, among other things, barred Catholics from the education system (whether to train to become priests or anything else). As a result, Irish monks immigrated to the Continent in droves, setting up Catholic institutions in which to study and teach. And thus deepened the relationship between the French and the Irish.

Collège des Irlandais

One such institution was the Collège des Irlandais on Paris’ left bank. This gorgeous school, with its vast courtyard, is the only one still around and has become the only Irish government-funded cultural center in the world. The Centre Culturel Irlandais is well worth getting to know (especially since there’s no American cultural center here).

For starters, there’s the street that it’s on—rue des Irlandais. What an amazing coincidence! I’m only taking the piss out of ya. The street was named after the college. More importantly, the building is a thing of beauty and calm. Like many other places in Paris, they close for lunch. The other day when I stopped by, I showed up right when they were to re-open for the afternoon and I stood across the street and watched the employees open these two enormous doors to reveal the courtyard. The people working at the institute are very nice and welcoming. You can make yourself at home and relax in the courtyard with its sculpture garden.

The institute has the beautiful Saint Patrick Chapel, which has mass every Sunday, a library (that was just renovated—more about that in a minute), an art gallery, a theatre, and residences (for students and artists). Events at the center happen every week—from art gallery exhibits to readings to debates and lectures on the Irish economy to performances by their resident choir to free movie showings (recently they had a showing of Abrahamson’s Garage, which was, um, not exactly a comedy).

This year, for the first time, the institute has offered a Gaelic language and Irish history and cultural course. The cost is only 100 euros and while it’s too late to sign up for this year’s course, you can certainly call to get on the waiting list for next year’s course.

This week is Library Ireland Week in Ireland and the cultural center is joining in on the fun. The center will be giving free tours at 5 p.m. (everyday until March 7) of its newly refurbished library and media center. Why should you go? Because the library has three illuminated manuscripts, so you don’t have to go all the way to Trinity College in Dublin to see one. To reserve your place in the tour, call 01 58 52 10 30.

Saint Patrick’s Day

So what are you doing for Saint Patrick’s Day? If you’re not flying to Dublin, Boston or New York for the celebrations, then celebrate here à la française. There’s a little corner of France where red hair and freckles are not uncommon. It’s Bretagne and there’s a bit of an “expat” community of them here in Paris, as well. There’s a tartan store that caught my eye a few weeks ago in the Montparnasse area and I went in and asked the clerk where he’s from. “Bretagne”, he replied. I said, “oh, okay, you’re French. I thought perhaps you were Irish or Scottish” . . . he interrupted me: “Not French; Bretagne”. Point taken.

For Saint Patrick’s Day, these people convene in the Palais Omnisports at Bercy for the 15^th Nuit de la Saint Patrick. It kicks off at 8:00 p.m. with Irish and Breton music and dancers—over 150 different performers. Then at 11:30 p.m. is a giant Fest Noz—an all-night Breton party with song and dance. The party is set to wind down at 2:00 a.m.

At 7:30 p.m. on Monday, March 17, Mary Shannon will give a St. Patrick’s Day performance of traditional music at the Irish Cultural Center. Tickets cost 10 euros.

And of course, next weekend Disney Village will be hopping with pipers and traditional music at Billy Bob’s saloon in the evenings (March 15 through 17). Entrance into Disney Village and Billy Bob’s is free. It’s the last stop on the RER A train (Marne la Vallée). Click here for more information. Inside the main park, look for more Irish music, face painting and even fireworks.

Pubs and Sessions

Looking for more Irish things to do in Paris? Well, of course there are pubs. Our favorite is Carr’s, in the first arrondissement, which has been around since the beginning of time and has a live session every single night of the week. There’s also a bricked cave downstairs where Andy often holds his own sessions—drinking and socializing, not music. The Quiet Man Pub is also a popular and happening pub, located in the third arrondissement, with live music and sports.

And finally, if you’re looking for a place to learn how to play the pipes or the tin whistle, call up the Association Irlandaise in the 14^th and sign up for one of their many atéliers, where you can learn how to dance or how to play in a session. Classes range from fiddle to bodhrán to singing. Enjoy.